Storyline: 50 years later
April 20, 2018
After saying goodbye to our wonderful hosts in Keswick on a dry and promising morning, we hopped on a bus that took us through some lovely scenery and small villages and dropped us off in the centre of Carlisle. Did I say the day was promising? It was actually sunny in Carlisle; probably the first sunny day since we arrived in England. Our small foldable backpack came in handy as we stuffed our coats into it.
We had time to walk through the city centre, enjoy the sun on a patio while sipping cappuccino, then amble through the grounds of the cathedral. And I even managed to pop my head into a few stores. Because of the sun, Alex loved Carlisle.
Our first of two days in transit from Cumbria to York would end in Settle, taking the famous Settle-Carlisle line south. This line has a fair bit of survival history. It traverses the moody fells of the North Pennines and meanders though the picturesque Yorkshire Dales. The terrain is considered one of the bleakest and wildest in England with fast changing weather, snowdrifts and flooding.
Built mainly by Irish navvies, the 72-mile (~ 115 km) line, has 14 tunnels and 22 viaducts including the famous Ribblehead Viaduct that crosses Batty Moss, and at one time its dire condition, together with other needed repairs almost triggered a closure of the line. Opened in 1875, it nearly closed in 1984, when the locals had to step in to save their railway. And from 93,000 passengers in 1983 the number soared to 500,000 in 1988. Excursion trains were run by enthusiasts from all over the country, and every local organisation, council, town and village got behind it.
Eventually the government not only reopened the train stations, but restored them and repaired the viaduct at a fraction of estimated cost. Passenger numbers continue to grow and 1.2 million were recorded in 2012. Nowadays it is a busy freight line with passenger trains run by diesel locomotives and steam-hauled charter engines.
Our luck with the sun continued as we boarded the train. We marveled the incredible scenery, took a few snaps while busy observing the hills and dales, drystone-walled meadows and beautiful train stations. Blue skies were decorated with splashes of white fluffy clouds! Can this be England? After the grey, low skies of Manchester, and moody, mainly wet Cumbria we finally saw perfectly blue skies. At 1150 feet (350 m), Dent is the highest mainline train station in England. We did not see much of the famous Ribblehead Viaduct though, since we were on it and the train is not that slow.
Not long after crossing the Ribblehead our journey for the day ended as the train pulled into Settle. We quickly got off to the platform, with a few other passengers and our train continued on to Leeds.
Sun was still shining. Our Inn was on the rolling hills of Gigglswick, just across the river from Settle. We enjoyed our stroll with the carry-ons, stopping here and there for a snap and a sigh of contentment, crossed the river and walked up the hill to Harts Head Inn. I loved it there. The pastoral scenery with undulating hills, the warmth of the sun, the blue skies, the light breeze and quietness of this place is magic. Our inn seemed magical too.
We dropped our bags in the room and settled on the back-yard patio, with beer for Alex and gin and tonic for me. Sunbathing as a lizard, I typed my notes and felt my blood and bones warming for the first time in two weeks, while waiting for our pizza to be made. Alex got busy with his camera.
Could have spent a day gazing at the hills and sipping gin and tonic. We opted for a walk in the area though. It really is a small idyllic place and I wouldn’t mind returning and spending some time in the area. Renting a farm house perhaps…
At dinner, as usual, we shared a main meal with wine and called it a day.
After a great breakfast next morning we took off for an early train that would take us to Leeds from where another train would take us to York.
The grey skies had returned. We managed to walk through Settle and I found a small store selling souvenirs, paintings and books.
As we walked by it, I spotted the “Eleven minutes late” book. In a humorous but engaging narrative the author tells the story and the history of the chaotic British railway system. Had to have it. With book in hand we headed back to the train station.
What a lovely little station it was. It even had a library to entertain the visitors waiting to board the next train. Which we did.
We didn’t have to go outside at Leeds, just change platforms.
As we walked to our platform to take the York train, a luxury steam train pulled in. It was The Great Britain Railtour excursion train coming in from Carlisle and preceding us on to York. At the head of this train was the recently rebuilt S R Merchant Navy class 35018 British India Line locomotive. All seemed to be first class.
There were teddy bears and flowers at every table, bears staring from the window. As Alex attempted to take a photo a man held his menu up and a woman was ready to chat. What are the chances to meet a Canadian at Leeds train station? Well we just did. The couple was from Vancouver and this was their first luxury train. Great experience, but too much food they said… We chatted a bit through the open window as they were served breakfast and the train pulled out of the station. Shortly after we boarded our train to York.
Have you noticed that there are always photographers at train stations? Must be something.
We arrived at York around noon and had our first walk around the wall to our accommodation under the blue skies and warmth of the sun. More on York in our next post.
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