Storyline: Westward Ho!
May 24 to May 30
Posting this from Saskatchewan and being hit with extremely hot and stormy weather it is hard to believe that we had sub-zero temperatures just a week ago.
First stop after we left Neys Provincial Park (PP) was at Aguasabon Falls & Gorge just after Terrace Bay. It was -2°C when we left, after I showered around 8am. The good thing about all the campgrounds we’ve been so far (provincial and private) is that they had heated showers.
At Neys we observed a bird we’ve never seen before. Thanks to Mr. Google we now know it is a ruffed grouse. Very interesting and doesn’t seem to care about people around.
It was barely zero when we reached the falls. They are about 800m off the highway. Nice gorge and spectacular falls. So we thought until we saw Kakabeka Falls. But for this later. It was Wednesday May 24th. I couldn’t believe how empty TransCanada hwy 17 was. The next scheduled stop was in Nipigon. For those of you who don’t know, out of urban areas the highway up here is primarily one lane each way with additional passing lanes usually on uphill runs. We drove through quite a few of these forks with no one in the proximity, wanting to pass us. (We drive with the speed limit but many here in Ontario drive much faster. Eh sometimes we’d see them stopped by police, and laugh sarcastically).
In Nipigon we checked the city sign/tower overlooking the lake and beautiful suspension bridge, then scouted the local grocery store and continued.
Fruits and veggies were expensive, but we bought more meat for the griddle. There is a lot more to this city but with our ambitious itinerary we can’t cover them all. Next stop would be a Walmart at Thunder Bay and they may not have small packages. Excluding the multiple construction sites on our way it got really busy around Thunder Bay.
We drove to the Terry Fox monument first. For our Canadian readers no explanation is needed. But for all the rest a few more words would be helpful. Terry Fox is a young Canadian hero. Born in Port Coquitlam, British Columbia (B.C.) he was only 18 when he lost his right leg to cancer. He was determined to raise money for cancer research and he followed his dream – his planned 8,530 km (5,300 miles) of daily marathons.
Starting in St. John’s Newfoundland April 12, 1980 and running 42 km (26 miles) a day. He conquered 5 provinces before reaching Ontario in June. Unfortunately, cancer had returned and had halted his marathon near the monument erected in his memory. Sept. 1, 1980 after 143 days and 3,339 miles (5,373km) he stopped running just outside Thunder Bay, Ontario. The tumor had spread in his lungs. He was transported to B.C. where after chemotherapy and other treatment he died on June 28, 1981 at the age of 22. His goal had 
been to raise $1 for every living Canadian. He raised $24mln for cancer research, and inspired generations. It is said that he united Canadians as never before. The first run in his name (Terry Fox Run) was held Sept. 13, 1981 at more than 760 sites in Canada and around the world. The event attracted about 300,000 participants and raised $3.5mln for cancer research. Since then, there is an annual Terry Fox Run. The monument we visited was unveiled June 26, 1982.
“Dreams are made if people only try. I believe in miracles… I have to… because somewhere the hurting must stop.” (Terrance Stanley Fox)
Back to our road trip. We had 4 nights booked at Kakabeka P.P. Stopping at a Walmart near hwy 17 for groceries and then at an Esso station for gas we arrived at the campsite around 4:40pm. We texted our friends Jane & Stuart that we had arrived. Text back a little later was “we are here”. Apparently, they had booked a site next to ours. I hadn’t realize that. During the booking in March (or was it April) Stuart had mentioned Happy Landing. All the rest of the communication got lost somehow. I had in mind already that they had booked Happy Landing. So “next to you” to me meant next campground. Until he showed at the door with “are you coming?”. “How did you get to here? Don’t you need a visitor’s permit?”. “We are next to you over there.”
Alex and I looked at their truck and trailer realising that we saw them pulling in. They had bought wood for a fire, but it was a bit late. Plus I sprung my back a few days ago and was not comfortable sitting in a chair. Thus, one of the two evenings we were together was lost. They had plans for the morning and we headed downhill to the falls.
We are so glad we did it in relatively early and cool morning. The views were beyond spectacular. Rainbows were everywhere. Over the falls, over the spray of water and over the icy boardwalk.
This later provided for great photos. We spend a long-time taking photos. A couple that I thought were photographers or at least had some equipment, offered to take a video of us under the rainbow on the frosted boardwalk. It was really nice of them.
The latter made it to Alex’s waterfalls video. We walked many times after but the falls, still majestic and beautiful, were not as exceptional as this first frosty morning.
Our campground is called “Whispering Hills”. It really lives to its name. So quiet in an evergreen forest mixed with aspen trees. Private sites and quiet neighbours.
It is said that provincial and national parks attract different clientele. People wanting to enjoy the quietness of nature, listen to the birds and hike in the wilderness. There was a seasonal site next to ours.
A couple from Thunder Bay arrived during the weekend. They later were joined by their two kids and spouses and four grandchildren. They all sat around the fire enjoying the evening and quiet chatters. Once we closed the windows, we did not hear any noise.
We also hiked the trails around the park and falls. Didn’t see any wildlife though. The aspens were still in a sleepy wintery mood, barely leafed out. Until next day. Summer in Northern Ontario arrived in an hour. From 2°C in the morning and relatively cool when we started our walk to 28°C in the afternoon. Finally! The morning we left the aspens were in full foliage, and others were in blossom.
Our next stop was Raith. There is a sign marking the Arctic watershed. Up until this place all rivers flow into the Atlantic.
From that point at 504 m elevation all the rivers flow north into the Arctic Ocean.
A little further north there is another marker. It says that here one crosses 90° longitude west and enters the central time zone. I was surprised by that fact. Never knew that part of Northern Ontario are in the Central time zone, which I guess is Manitoba. At least in summer time, because Saskatchewan doesn’t change their time in the spring.
We didn’t have a fixed destination for overnight. Ignace perhaps? Arriving at this little town at noon we still had lots of time.
We walked around the town, took a snapshot of the float plane, checked a few places to eat, all closed and ended up in the fast-food chain “The Subway” with a friendly staff.
First time we saw electric chargers for Tesla. It was interesting that Tesla had 6 charging stations vs only 2 for all other electric cars.
This would repeat elsewhere we stopped.
Ignace is half way between Thunder Bay that we left in the morning and Kenora. We decided to make it at least to the next city on the map, Dryden. Dryden is the second largest city in Kenora district, Kenora being the first of course. Did I mention I had sprung my back? It was still bothering me and we decided to try a hotel bed for a change with the hope that changing the bed could help (alas it wasn’t the case and it would take a few more days for it to settle).
Checked in, parked Doranya for the night and went to explore the city and its food scene. We walked to the B&B Roadhouse. Although it was early the place was rather full. Looked like there were some conventions going in the neighbouring hotel. Relatively good selection of food. We enjoyed our dinner and drinks. Alex had a beer from the brewery that we’d later visit in Kenora.
The Anicinabe Campground looks really nice. Until we settled in.
It was a short drive and we had plenty of time to check in. Decided to drive to the brewery first. Without knowing the city Alex parked in front of the brewery and paid for hour and a half. Well, that was a mistake.
Although Google said the tasting room and restaurant was open it actually wasn’t. Monday! Remember not to put your hopes up on Mondays. It’s been the same everywhere we go. East coast, Europe, Asia, etc. Yet it still hasn’t registered.
Turned Doranya toward the campground with google navigating us. Another big mistake. Had we gotten to the camp from the highway all would have been OK.
The entire area downtown towards the park was dug up with detours and some very challenging turns and squeezes. Eventually we got in. It still was only 12:30pm. Hooked up the electricity. Didn’t bother with the water since there was a boil water advisory.
The most unexpected feature of this otherwise picturesque campground were the swirls of mosquitoes. Not a good place to set the table and try to BBQ. And so, off we went through all the construction and dug-up areas all the way to the waters of “Lake of the Woods”.
Pretty, but a lot of poverty and drug users around. We eventually sat to have a bite in Boston Pizza. We have good memories of the chain from last years trip on the East Coast.
Alas, it wasn’t the same here. Back in the campground we found mossies even in the fan mesh. Something we’ve never experienced even in the buggiest places in the Maritimes.
I took on the mission to kill as many as I could. Off to bed. In the morning I went to shower. Big private ones. Boy were they full of mossies! And with dirty walls.
Back at our little home I told Alex that we are leaving. We’d drive and have lunch at the Lake of the Woods brewery and move on. And so we did. Brewery was nice.
We stocked up with beer after the lunch of which had to take some with us because the portions were really big.
Shortly after navigating through the damned serial construction slowdowns, we’d reach the provincial border with Manitoba. See you there.
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