Essaouira

Storyline: Highlights of Morocco

Jan 24

We really liked Essaouira although the only full day we had there it rained. All day. And this was the only rainy day we had though the entire trip. We still managed to enjoy it. Essaouira is an Atlantic resort. We didn’t go to the beach, aside from walking by it, because of the weather. But we enjoyed the sunset seen from the sea wall with old bronze cannons protecting the medina.

Jan 23 after breakfast in the Armed gîte, we were all bundled up in the cold, and no one showered although there was hot water in the sub-zero temperature shower stalls. We were all eager to get moving. The mules were ready to take our backpacks and we all rushed down the mountain trail back to Imlil where Larbi and our luggage waited for us.

On our way to Essaouira, aside from the coffee and lunch breaks, we had two “entertainment” stops. The first one was to see and take photos of goats in the trees.

Apparently, these goats naturally climb into trees, but here it was staged by goats’ owners that were forcing and keeping the goats on platforms built on argan trees to earn some income from tourists. I felt disgusted with this and quickly got back in the van.

The second stop was in an argan oil factory and shop. We were shown how the oil is made and of course brought to the store where we were encouraged to buy their products.

We arrived in Essaouira early afternoon. Here sadly we had to say goodbye to Larbi. He had taken another group and had to move on. For our last transfer day to Marrakesh we’d be picked up by another driver. I really liked Larbi, a gentle soul with a quiet smile. But everything has an end and this just reminded us that our trip was approaching its end, too.

Our luggage was loaded into a cart pushed by a porter to our hotel in the medina. This time we’d be staying in a riad.

It was a really small courtyard with open stairs around it. All rooms were facing the stairwell, so no external windows. There was a terrace on the top floor where we’d be having our breakfast the next two mornings.

We had the afternoon to ourselves. Alex and I walked to the city walls just in time to watch a beautiful sunset over the ocean, together with many locals gathered in the area.

We walked thorough the Jewish medina and found a place with a view for our dinner.

However, it was too windy for the terrace so we opted to sit inside and watch the world from the big window.

Next morning, we had a delicious breakfast on the oceanview terrace, a rainbow hinting at how the day would unfold. It was the best breakfast of the tour, aside from the buffet breakfast in our Casablanca hotel.

There was a variety of baked goodies and freshly made omelets. Shortly after breakfast it began to rain.

We donned on our ponchos and went exploring.

We walked by the famous blue fishing boats,

we walked by the fish market

then to the beach…

On our way back to the medina, just outside the walls we ran into an interesting Jazz bar. Ben, the owner invited us in and proudly showed us around the almost completed venue.

There was a restaurant that would be open in the evening, with live entertainment. We knew where our dinner would be.

While walking through the souks of the medina we noticed a courtyard with many patios of family-run restaurants. They all had more or less the same menu and each one had a man, probably the owner, trying to get clients in.

At the end of the row was a little guy, who grabbed our attention. Fluent in both English and French, 11-year-old Ahmed was doing the “sales”.

So we decided to give him a chance. We ordered grilled dorada and grilled sardines, and shortly afterwards Ahmed’s father Ahmed showed us the fresh fish he’d got from the market and would be serving. It was delicious! Others seeing us at that patio also made it their choice.

Back at the hotel, we had a short drying break.

And we had our plans for dinner.

Around 7 pm we headed back to the D’Jazy jazz bar.

The restaurant was open and we had an absolutely fantastic dinner western style,

with entertainment by Moroccan gnawa musician Saïd Boulhimas.

This concluded our Essaouira visit nicely, and left us with good memories and wanting to come back for its official opening on April 21 when, we were told, that Carlos Santana would be performing.

That was then….

Now with all borders closed and pandemic spread, I just wish them all luck and hope they can survive hunkered down. But how many will actually survive? Here, there and everywhere in the world. Time will tell.

Essaouira