Storyline: Highlights of Morocco
We ended a very long day with African dancing and learning the drums around the fire at the edge of the desert. I was hesitant to book the “Highlights of Morocco” tour because of the included 10-hour drive from Fez to the dunes of the Sahara at Merzouga. Yet this has been the best day so far. My day started at 5am and ended around midnight. We left the hotel in Fez around 7:30am.
Still in the dark, we drove through resort town Imouzzer Kandar, where the buildings were reminiscent of an Alpine village with sharply slanted chalet-style roofs. Quickly snapped a picture of the lion statue in Ifran, a charming mountain town, which apparently draws many Moroccan tourists during the summer as its Alpine climate offers a respite from the heat of the lower altitudes.
At dawn our sleepy group was awakened for the first stop of the day – meet and greet the Berber Apes (macaques) in a natural reserve near Azrou. At around 9am the air was still crisp and some of us were more interested in getting back into the cozy and warm bus than viewing the apes.
All were soon back on board and Larbi drove us on the winding roads, passing thought town of Timahdte just as school was starting. Splotches of snow began appearing on the green hills beside the road.
About 40 min later, we finally got to our first coffee and refreshment break. Said was in his element. He inserted himself as a barista and made our coffees: this I believe, was to help the small staff cope with us and another group that arrived at the same time. I had two cappuccinos.
After a warm-up African dance with Said and Larbi we boarded the minibus for another couple of hours drive through the Middle Atlas Mountains before we stopped at a local market in Zaida.
This time we had to buy bread for our picnic. Bread is a staple of any meal here. Breakfast often is bread, olives and a variety of pastries, including potato pita/pancake. At the market, aside from bread, we also bought fresh fruits.
The landscape was changing from green to brown, stony hills with less vegetation. We drove through the apple farming area with the town of Midelt displaying a big apple in its center.
The road wound up into the mountains and I noticed that all buildings in the area were blending with the sandy and stony hills they stood on. What a difference from the colourful Chefchaouen and Fez. There was another refreshment stop just before the picnic. All in all, the drive was really pleasant, with many evenly-spaced stops.
Our picnic was in a designated area by a thermal spring at Moulay Hachem, where the owners had set out blankets on the concrete for us to relax and dine on. Mint tea was also provided. It is the main drink in Morocco and no meal, accommodation check-in or workshop demonstration goes without it.
The major attraction at Moulay Hachem was its many cats. While they were all quite slender, I wouldn’t say they were really hungry, because apparently there is lots of food around.
The rest of our drive was through the mountains, crossing them many times.
We crossed River Ziz, the longest river in Morocco, and drove up into the mountains following its gorge for some time, passing a big reservoir before we had another refreshment stop.
Then an hour or so later it was another stop at a panoramic Ziz valley lookout for some photos, nature admiration, and perhaps some shopping in the gift shop.
We were already on the outskirts of the desert. Shortly after we re-boarded the minibus, we became aware that our Irish companion was having a problem with his eye. We stopped in Erfoud to check at the hospital, but there was no eye specialist on duty. It was Saturday and hospitals would work only on a limited basis except in some big cities, some six or more hours drive away. After much back and forth, he decided to continue to the hotel and see what his insurance company would advise. He just left this morning with another tour group going to Marrakech.
There was not much left of the drive and to my surprise the desert we were approaching wasn’t just sand, but also comprised many hills and mountains. In the meantime, Said was keeping our spirits in shape with lots of singing and dancing from his seat.
We stopped for another refreshment in a store, where some bought scarves, some ladies got dresses and most of the guys got turbans, which the seller carefully wrapped around their heads. And at another point we stopped for ATMs for those who needed to withdraw money.
Once we turned off the main road for the hotel our driver took the microphone and sang a beautiful song. We really enjoy the Moroccan music, especially the style from the Atlas Mountains, Said’s home area.
Checked in the hotel just before 6pm. The hotel has a lovely setting. We have a huge room with basic facilities, but we are in the desert after all.
Why do we need wifi (not much of it even at reception), or light (very dim light in the room), when we have all the spectacular views of the dunes?
Dinner: salad, bread and surprise, surprise, chicken tagine with fruits for dessert, was served around 7pm. It was delicious and the wine we had brought from Fez paired well with the food.
Ray sang beautifully “If I need you” by Don Williams as the eyes of many filled with tears. There were other groups in the dining room. Suddenly everyone got quiet. The room exploded into applause at the end. It was his way of saying goodbye to the group but especially to one person.
The best part was yet to come. After dinner we gathered around a fire pit. However, the most impressive thing was the sky! Oh, these stars! Never seen so many of them in such a clear sky. And the Milky Way, with its stars and nebulae so vividly crisp.
After the fire was lit, the hotel staff brought out the drums and the singing and dancing began. We spent a couple of hours watching the fire, the sky, listening to the High Atlas drumming and of course dancing. I learned how to drum. Basic rhythm but fun. Ray was with us, enjoying the last hours on his tour.
We went to bed reluctantly, me still gazing the amazing skies. There was so much magic in this place.
This looks fantastic. Makes us want to go for sure.
Thank you! We had great time with a great group. Highly recommended.