Storyline: Scandinavia
Tue, Jun 24
After a big delay here is the next post from our Scandinavian trip – Flåm.
Bergen saw us off with its usual gloom, rain and cold.
We left our accommodation in the morning darkness to board an early ferry to our next destination, a tiny village in southwestern Norway, in an area known for its fjords, Flåm. It sits at the end of Aurlandsfjord, a branch of the vast Sognefjord, the longest and deepest fjord in Norway.
By the time we boarded the small ferry we were soaked. Used the spare seat next to us to dry our raincoats. As we left Bergen harbour the fjord began to slowly reveal its beauty.
First, we left the rain and the lower clouds behind.
My fears that we have to enter the open waters of the North Sea before reaching the fjord were quickly appeased. I took a map from the service desk.
The route meandered between small islands protecting us from the open sea. Small villages, boathouses, lighthouses,
under the famous Nordhordland Bridge, which has a significant floating pontoon part.
An interesting small rock with a post lamp on it with houses of Alver perched on the hill.
Through Alverstraumen strait.
Shortly after Fensfjorden opened with its majestic views. Sun peering through the clouds.
Meandering through a few more fjords protected by Sandøyna and then
Hisarøyna islans (øyna means the island)
we finally enter the breathtaking Sognefjord.
Steep cliffs rising from the water, white fluffy clouds hovering over them and
sun shining over the deep blue waters,
creating picture-perfect reflections.
Snow caps the highest of the mountains, waterfalls running down the hills.
We pass one close by Vikøyri,
the first stop of our ferry.
High snowy mountains behind.
We pass by Balestrand,
Leikanger and
then stop for a photo-op by Lægdafossen.
High and steep waterfall.
This stop and the surrounding cliffs reminded me Milford Sound in New Zealand.
We docked in Flåm around 13:30 with plenty of time to walk to our lodge,
tucked away from the main area.
We rolled our carry-ons on the path by the water for about 10 min and dropped them at reception.
Back to the harbour we checked the train station, the main reason we were there.
Flåm is the fjord-side terminus of the famous Flåmsbana Railway Line, one of the steepest and most scenic of its kind, with its vintage carriages traveling through the mountains with a stop at Kjosfossen Falls. Its final stop is Myrdal 867 metres above the fjord, and a stop on the Oslo – Bergen line.
We would take this train the next morning. But for now, let’s enjoy the tiny village with some 300 people living in the area. However, it is geared towards tourism and lacks authentic Norwegian charm. We’d experience this in the few hours walking through the small space, littered with day trippers.
It was so busy that we could not visit the train museum, skipped the general store and all the fast-food booths crowded to the brim, crossed the bridge and tried to enjoy the quietness of the green space by the mountain.
But even then, we could not get away from the cruise crowds.
Not long after we checked in and enjoyed the wine we had carried with us from Bergen, before the dinner provided by the lodge together with the breakfast next morning.
We finished the wine at dinner, happily watching the cruise ship leaving the fjord.
We could finally enjoy the unobstructed views of the beautiful surroundings of this place.
We walked back to the village and took some photos, which was not possible earlier with the crowds.
The museum was closed, but the train was stationed there for the next morning.
Most of the fast-food kiosks were now closed. The pub/brewery was open serving probably some victors from the hotel next to the train station.
The prices were not to our budget.
There was an interesting electric ferry docked in the harbour.
We called it a day and off we went to bed.
Below is part of what I posted at the time on Facebook the following morning before departing.
June 25
“Tranquil before the huge cruise monsters arrive and after they depart.
Arriving by a small ferry yesterday we were overwhelmed by the amount of people, running around like ants.
Most of them from two monster cruise ships. One has 5 000 + 1 500 staff on board. The vessel alone sucks all the air. There is no room for 10 000 feet on the ground. There is one WC at the train station. That’s it for everyone! Our receptionists told us large cruises would be banned next year.
They really don’t have place in such a small location. Besides, their biggest contribution to this place is pollution. After this morning first arrival the air became so thick of fuel, it was hard to breathe. Someone said that one of those emits more CO2 than all the private cars in Norway during the year. And because of them Flåm in the summer gets more polluted than the big cities.”
We have a long day ahead of us.
After breakfast we buy sandwiches from the grocery store to be consumed later on the train to Oslo.
Around noon we line up to board Flåmsbana.
It runs through the valley of Flåmsdalen and connects the mainline Bergen – Oslo with Sognefjord. The Flåm Railway is described as one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world and one of the leading tourist attractions in Norway.
It takes you from seal level at Flåm to 867 meters up the mountains at Myrdal station.
We first pass through farmland following the river, before entering the first of 20 tunnels (18 carved by hand).
20 tunnels is not a small number of a 20km railway.
The train would turn 180-degrees inside the mountain through one of the tunnels. Shifting landscapes glide pass our window, yet the skies are in a gloomy mood.
Covered with clouds, often quite low. The train first stops at Berekvam Station, the only station that has a passing loop, where the trains can meet. We wait for the train from Myrdal to arrive. As it stops, we slowly pull out back to the single rail.
Then the train shops for a short photo op at Kjosfossen. Fascinating waterfall! The announcement is for 5 min.
I don’t see how one can unload and then load everyone in such a short period. As crowds pour out, I decide that my best chances are to see it all from the height of the door.
Alex is somewhere in front waving his Insta stick and I hope he manages to record the show.
There is music as the Lady of the Falls dances in the mist on the rocks by the falls. Before everyone is out, the train whistle calls them back. All on board the train go up to Myrdal.
We disembark and wait for the train that will take us to Oslo. With blistering winds and low clouds, it is incredibly cold for midsummer.
We chat with an Australian couple but everyone is happy to board and warm inside the train that arrived from Bergen.
We share a table with a youngish Italian-American couple. She is American. During the conversation she apologizes to us, the Canadians, for what Trump is doing, adding “I didn’t vote for him”.
The scenery is incredibly beautiful and hostile at the same time. It is worth mentioning that this is a single track railway with a few stops that have a loop for trains to pass each other.
From Myrdal the railway ascends to the Hardangervidda plateau. Hallingskeid stasjon is located on the plateau in an area without population or road access.
The station is inside a snow tunnel. By now we have passed a few of these snow tunnels, built to protect the railway from the avalanches. But this station has survived a few fires, including one on 2011 that damaged the tunnel and a train. It is unmanned station for hikers and skiers. The train moves slowly through the snow tunnel. On the other side of it still the same hostile snow-capped mountains.
We eventually reach the highest stop of the railway at Finse Station. At 1,222m it is also the highest station of the Norwegian railway. It is only accessible by train. When booking the trip, about 8 months ago I wanted to book a night or two at hotel Finse 1222, but it was fully booked.
Apparently, it is a popular destination for hiking during the summer and cross county skiing during the winter. It looked fairly wintery to me at the end of June, but again that this railway runs through one of Europe’s most inhospitable terrains.
The railway begins it slow descent to Haugastøl by Sløddfjorden and then Ustaoset stations by Ustevatn lake. The snow-capped mountains give the way to the greenery Hallingskeidselva river near Geilo.
The train then follows the Usta river and then Lågen River all the way to Oslo. We arrive there after 7PM. See you in Oslo (if I manage to finish this storyline before our next trip).
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