Storyline: Scandinavia
Tuesday, June 10 is our last day in Stockholm. We are heading north towards the Arctic circle. Our next stop will be Boden. I have already mentioned this a few times in previous posts but we had a wonderful stay at Best Western Plus Time Hotel in Stockholm. I’ve had a membership since the times I was working. We’ve used the chain a few times over the years. Gives us discounts or free nights, depending on the promotions at the time. But nothing we’ve seen in North America compares to this one. First because of my long-standing membership they upgraded us to a premium room.
Very spacious and comfortable. But the best in this hotel was their breakfast. They either can’t imagine it back home, or don’t care. For those of you experiencing the hotel life in North America, at least at Best Westerns and Comfort Inns, you know that beyond a few muffins, bacon and occasional reconstituted scrambled egg, perhaps a toaster for the “plastic” bread there is nothing else. Buffet breakfast in this hotel was beyond imagination. Huge variety spread over 6 or 7 sections.
Starting from a variety of sliced breads, buns, and crisp breads from all kind of flour, spreads, croissants, cereals, big bowls of yogurt, moving to the hot section with soft- and hard-boiled eggs, scrambled eggs, crepes, and the jams that go with them, including Canadian maple syrup, hot veggies, meatballs, sausages, and bacon, you name it. Then comes a cold section that literally blew our minds. Smoked salmon, smoked salmon salad mix, tuna salad mix, shrimp salad, herring, and all the mustards and sauces that go with it, then a section of cheeses, salami, prosciutto, pâte, and microgreens that one cuts with the provided scissors, salads, and fruits. This was our favourite section and we never even tried the cheeses and salami side. Then came the coffee, tea, juices and sweets section. Alex enjoyed that part of it (not the coffee – A). Ever thought that the milk you add to your coffee or tea will be hot too? Beyond this there was a gluten free section with a separate toaster. Before heading out we’d spent an hour and a half in the buffet area and this practically kept us full for the day.
Initially I had booked an apartment in a short-term rentals building. It was somewhat closer to the train station but not on the main island. A few days before leaving I just decided to check Best Western. There are many around the city, but this one, some 2.5km uphill from the train station had the best deal. With breakfast for two included it was cheaper than the apartment I had book. Glad I found this one. We would not have had the time to shop and cook for ourselves.
Instead, we enjoyed all the time we had walking around this beautiful city. Weather was perfect for it. I think it is now my favourite city. And we barely scratched the surface in the 5 days we had here.
This morning, we asked if they would extend the checkout for us and they did. So, I had the time to pack, do some wine shopping (it will go to Norway with us, since if you haven’t heard this, alcohol there is prohibitively expensive, at least for us). My little backpack, that has been empty, aside from my neck pillow took the wine, a big pack of Swedish dry breads, Alex’s cookies, a small (125g) bag of roasted almonds (they will last me all the way to Malmo) and some dry elk sausages, that will travel with us all the way to Oslo. Elk, whale, and reindeer were very popular tourist souvenirs. Oh, and the acrylic wine glasses would be here too. We had all the technology (computers, multiple chargers, Insta and more) in Alex’s backpack. Plus, the raincoats and the old ponchos that we never used.
At around 2 pm we check out. Still tons of time before we board our sleeper train, but with our luggage we decided to spend as much time as we could in the SJ lounge. (SJ stands for Statens Järnvägar, which translates to Swedish State Railways in English. It operates the Swedish passenger trains.)
Our tickets included lounge access. And here is where I write this post. (Eh, just some of it, now I am finishing it from home). The lounge closes at 6:30PM and we’ll still have 3 hours to departure.
We may bite the bullet and leave our luggage in a locker (they don’t come cheap) at the train station and wander around a bit more. The sun here at this time of the year sets after 10 pm, and even then, it doesn’t really get dark. And so we locked 2 carry-ons and 2 backpacks in one normal locker (I didn’t believe it would fit). We then walked back towards the concert hall. There are two places where the Nobel Prize is awarded: Stockholm and Oslo. The Peace Prize is awarded in Oslo.
All the rest are awarded in the Stockholm Concert Hall (Konserthuset). Since it was just around the corner from the train station, we left it for today. Unfortunately, it was under renovation.
All scaffolded, we would not know it was the building of our interest if not for the statue in front of it and the Konserthuset golden colour sign over a side door of a blue-grey building. We strolled around a bit and returned to the main hall of the train station.
It was exactly an hour since we locked the luggage. It didn’t make sense to keep it there and pay for more. Alex was already tired (it was, after all close to our regular bed time – A) and didn’t mind sitting at a bench with it. I wandered around, checked all the stores, got some sandwiches for later. Although we had some food in the lounge, it was mainly salads, some sweets for Alex, a cracker or two for me, tea and coffee. Alex would be hungry by departure time.
The train was on the platform at around 9pm, almost 2 hours before departure. We happily boarded. We now have our own toilet. (Between the SJ lounge and the train we had to pay for using the train station one). As the train rolled out of Stockholm Central Train Station a young lady came to check our tickets (what was she going to do if we were on the wrong train, dump us miles away at the next stop?) She told us that at her boyfriend will replace her overnight; I believe in Sundsvall. If we had any questions, she or he would answer them. We did. When will they make the bed? Alex just wanted in. The beds are already made she say, just follow the instructions, she pointed to a diagram on the wall and moved on. The compartment is tiny. We thought the one from Vienna to Amsterdam was small. Comparing to this one it was a mansion.
There was no room for our small suitcases. No table either, just something as a step by the window. Alex managed to squeeze his backpack above the door. Mine had to stay up because of the wine and food we had in it. There was another small shelf just above the tiny closet with the ladder. After Alex pulls his bed down, sets the ladder and goes up, I’d arrange the two carry-ons by the window. Easier said than done. Alex of course needs not only the ladder that takes all the space between the bed the bathroom wall, but his chargers, phone, headphones all plugged across to the opposite to the beds wall. So to say, he needs (wants! – A) his comfort: who cares about mine? (really?? – A)
Once the ladder is attached there isn’t much room for me to get in and out of bed. The suitcases kept sliding under the ladder with the train movement and blocking the toilet door. I knew I shouldn’t drink this coffee in the lounge! Between Alex or I going to the WC, the ladder falling or the suitcases running around, there wasn’t much sleep for me.
I didn’t mind it since we were heading to the zone of the midnight sun and I was excited. I kept watching through the window and taking photos. I am used to not sleeping a night, two or three.
Sometime well after midnight at a stop we hear loud voices, laughter and jubilation. Then the girl said something on the microphone, perhaps saying goodbye.
Then it was a male voice. Yes, we knew it was her boyfriend in charge now. I was just falling asleep at around 5am. Shortly after there was announcement that we can get our breakfast from the kiosk at the end of the car. Alex decided to go get ours.
It wasn’t much of a breakfast either. Remember the champaign bottle in our Vienna NightJet, and the lovely breakfast we had? But if I compare prices, train 92 moving us towards the arctic circle was cheaper. It is about a 13-hour journey and it would arrive on time, just a few minutes before 11 am. The next day we’d take train 94, that would take us through the arctic circle all the way north to Kiruna, Abisco and crossing the border to Norway. Or so we thought.
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